Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 20:06 GMTWhy in the hell would anyone put a lp crossover on a mid range speaker? And just the left one at that? You do mean a 6x9, 6x5, something like this and not a sub? I'm almost sure I'm misunderstanding you here, but the way I read it, if it was me, I'd pull off all the crossovers on the mids, that will make them sound a lot better, lot more range, have those running from either the HU or a 4 channel amp, and have a mono or 2 channel amp set on LPF for subs. I wouldn't even use an external crossover.
Now you seem like a knowledgeable guy, so I'm almost certain that this isn't what you meant. Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2007 - 20:33 GMTI think you misunderstood. The high low converter is not running TO the 6x9 speaker, it's running from it to my subwoofer amplifier. Basically my HU does not have RCA outputs, so I need an adapter to take the HU outs and convert to RCA to plug into my sub amp. However, when the guys that did the install set it up, they just took the audio from my rear left in car speaker. It seemed weird to me, but I think it was just a fast way to do it. Problem is it's only getting a mono signal - all from the left because they twisted to two feeds together into one channel.
So I think I might just run some speaker wire from the rear right speaker into the converter and get it stereo that way. Still unsure though. Its a hard thing to explain.does it make sense yet? Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 15:17 GMTI have a hi/low adapter and when i installed it I tested exactly what you are talking about Rich. The hi/low adapter has one end with your RCA outputs and the other end has a 6 wires comeing out of it the two brown ones are your ground wires which you dont need to use that leaves you with four wires. Two of those four or your positive and negative which are to be plugged in on your left rear speaker.
The other two are your other negative and postive for your right rear speaker. And yes it does make a difference in the loudness and sound quality of your a subwoofer.
Think about it if the adapter is only getting the left side of your stereo it will only be getting that half of the HU's output.make sense? Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 22:46 GMTWell I finished it a little while ago but something is strange.The positive and negative inputs for the hi/lo have to both be tied into the same line in order to get signal. So, one + and - are wired to the green wire on one speaker, and the other + and - are wired to the red wire on the other speaker. That was the only way to get it to work.it also is not any louder. I tried wiring the + and - to the red and green on each speaker respectively, but that gave me no sound.I'm confused because that makes no sense to me at all.but it works.
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Okay i have a 1998 ford ranger, this is my first time installing sub woofers, and pretty much all i need right now is to get those RCA cables in, so i got this high/low converter. Okay so i have no idea where to start, i have access to my rear speakers, but i'm. Okay i have a 1998 ford ranger, this is my first time installing sub woofers, and pretty much all i need right now is to get those RCA cables in, so i got this high/low converter. Okay so i have no idea where to start, i have access to my rear speakers, but i'm sorry if this sounds dumb of me to ask. I have 4 wires on the converter, one for left/right speakers, + and - okay so these wires are like 4 inches long, if i open up one speaker i can hook up the left one but then how would i get it to the right speaker?
If anyone can walk me through it that would be great.! Best Answer: Remove the factory stereo.
You're going to need Ford radio keys, DO NOT use anything else but these. You can get them at Pep boys or auto barn, also some car audio shops sell them. Pull out the factory radio and disconnect the harness with all the wires on it.
You're going to need to cut back some of the insulation on 4 wires to make the connections. Don't cut the wires, just strip back the rubber so you can wrap or solder the wires from the hi/lo and tape them. Connect the white wire on the hi/lo to the orange/green-stripe wire in the ford 2.
Connect the white/stripe wire on the hi/lo to the Light Blue/white-stripe wire in the ford 3. Connect the grey wire on the hi/lo to the Light Tan/green-stripe wire in the ford 4. Connect the grey/stripe wire on the hi/lo to the Green/Orange-stripe wire in the ford Ignore the other wires on the hi/lo, and you're all set! You can run your RCA cables down behind the glovebox really easily. Typically these are installed at the back of the radio, where all the speaker wires can be found right next to each other.
High Low Level Converter Install
If you want to connect them at the speakers, that's fine; but you'll have to extend the wires to reach the far speakers. You can extend them using ordinary speaker wire; it doesn't have to be very thick. You don't need to cut the stock wires or disconnect them; just splice into the wires without cutting, and make sure to cover the connection with good quality electrical tape. Go to, click on the 'support' link at the top of the page, then search for '1998 Ranger' to get a wiring diagram for your vehicle. Tell us some more. Upload in Progress. Upload failed.
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I am planning on installing an amplifier in my 2008 Mustang and hoping to keep the factory head unit for now. My amplifier supports high level input through the RCAs. My question is should I splice/solder the adapters in at the factory head unit (before factory amp). Or at the speakers (after factory amp).
I believe that the factory system has fade/balancers built into the amps so I would lose those if I went from the head unit but I am thinking it is the right way to do it? If I go from the head unit output do I need to have a summing unit or can I just leave it as is?
I am assuming the amp will just amplify each channel based on what is received from the head unit that way (not sure if it does any frequency filtering at that point or if it is done at the factory amps). Please give me your suggestions. I'm not too fussed about keeping fade/balance. So you want to keep the factory amp? I wouldn't suggest that.
Spyder 3 elite activation code. I'd recommend getting rid of the factory amp altogether, they're usually not the best, and it would be difficult - if not impossible - for them to work together. I google'd for a quick sanity check and I'll post a snippet from WikiAnswers: I wouldn't.first most after market amps require a certain amount of power for proper function, such as a good ground, a good power source, some sort of RCA audio input, and a remote turn on.
I know trying to figure out the same thing once. Plus most factory amps are just a plug of 16 gauge wires, and by time you through all of them to figure out power,ground,and remote, you still have to figure out how to send and input to your after market amp. Lets say you did do it and figured it all out, once you turn your deck on the after market amp probably would go right into protect due to not having enough power. Even if you wired it up right I have a good feeling it wouldn't sound good. One exception I can think of is that some amps have a type of 'line out' where they directly support daisy chaining to additional amplifiers. Typically the amps have to be the same model/family to work in this manner though, to sync the power being delivered to the speakers, and other low level audio/power stuff that's currently beyond me.
For a solution though, If your factory unit has Pre-amp outputs, then you have your answer: Run a pair to your aftermarket amp, and you'd be good to go. If not, then a line-level converter is the route you'll have to go. Update You definitely want to use the low-level (RCA, pre-amp) outputs from your factory head-unit if available. That way you don't get amplified noise from your head-unit, which goes to your shiny new amp that you can't crank up because it will start to clip at a very low level. That way, you get an unamplified signal going to your amp, which is precisely what it wants. YMMV, but I know older factory head-units don't have pre-amp outputs.
If it does, then awesome. You also asked for where to splice: I'm assuming that's for if your radio doesn't have pre-amps. However you said your amp has high level inputs, if that's the case then there I would splice close to where the amp is going to go, this will minimize or eliminate more splices. Typically the connectors that come with amps for high level input don't have a lot of wire on them(see below), so you'll have to splice close to the amp, and since you're running all new wire you can run wire straight from your HU right up to the amp and splice there.