Hanks for stopping by the community, we hope to see you often in the New Year. While removing the carpeting in the room you do want to cut away from the edge (tack strip area) about a couple of inches. Also cut the carpet up into strips so that it will be more manageable to roll up and remove. Try and use a pair of pliers to grab hold of the carpet edge and pull it up.
It's also advisable to wear a pair of work gloves in case the carpet slips out of your hands and to protect against catching your hands on the sharp tack strips. You may also use either a screw driver or small pry bar to get that edge started. Be careful to not get underneath the tack strips and possibly remove them. Please be very careful, a lot can happen with such a simple project.
Anytime knives and sharp pointy objects are involved things can happen.:smileysurprised: You may also want to change out your padding under the carpeting while you have it up. Also, if you have any squeaky spots on the floor, go ahead and screw those areas down before applying new carpeting. We've got some great info on our website about carpet pad, pile and options. Click here for that information, I hope you found this helpful. Please feel free to 'pop' in anytime - we are here 24/7. Hanks for stopping by the community, we hope to see you often in the New Year. While removing the carpeting in the room you do want to cut away from the edge (tack strip area) about a couple of inches.
Also cut the carpet up into strips so that it will be more manageable to roll up and remove. Try and use a pair of pliers to grab hold of the carpet edge and pull it up. It's also advisable to wear a pair of work gloves in case the carpet slips out of your hands and to protect against catching your hands on the sharp tack strips. You may also use either a screw driver or small pry bar to get that edge started.
How To Install Carpet Under Baseboard Heat
Be careful to not get underneath the tack strips and possibly remove them. Please be very careful, a lot can happen with such a simple project.
Anytime knives and sharp pointy objects are involved things can happen.:smileysurprised: You may also want to change out your padding under the carpeting while you have it up. Also, if you have any squeaky spots on the floor, go ahead and screw those areas down before applying new carpeting. We've got some great info on our website about carpet pad, pile and options. Click here for that information, I hope you found this helpful.
Please feel free to 'pop' in anytime - we are here 24/7. Just try and come diagonal from the corner out into the room and then cut parallel along the wall (#1). The best advise I can give you is to just try and get the edge started, and the rest will just fall into place. You cant really damage much during this process.Provided this was a normal carpet install, most of the time the carpet is cut to room size, slightly tucked just under the baseboards and then stretched to tighten.
The only problem you might run into is that if the baseboard was accually installed after the carpet (which is highly unlikely). Thank you so much for responding back with other questions - we love to help and we love lots of questions. Happy New Year! Just try and come diagonal from the corner out into the room and then cut parallel along the wall (#1). The best advise I can give you is to just try and get the edge started, and the rest will just fall into place.
You cant really damage much during this process.Provided this was a normal carpet install, most of the time the carpet is cut to room size, slightly tucked just under the baseboards and then stretched to tighten. The only problem you might run into is that if the baseboard was accually installed after the carpet (which is highly unlikely). Thank you so much for responding back with other questions - we love to help and we love lots of questions. Free lineage 2 server. Happy New Year! Hey Petfixr, I am Gregg from the Chicago area Home Depot and I recently installed carpet for the first time at my house. Your husband is correct about the trim (but you don’t have to tell him:smileywink:).
It is hard to remove the base board moulding without breaking it and even if you succeed the trim will be filled with unusable nail holes and it could easily damage your walls. Luckily you don’t have to remove the base board when removing the carpet.
Carpet is installed underneath the baseboard. The space between the tack strip, the wall, and the bottom of the trim is called the gully and it is where the edge of the carpet is tucked into after it is stretched and cut.
I would remove the carpet and then paint the trim. If you have more questions let us know. Take some pictures of the remodel so we can see the progress. Hey Petfixr, I am Gregg from the Chicago area Home Depot and I recently installed carpet for the first time at my house. Your husband is correct about the trim (but you don’t have to tell him:smileywink:). It is hard to remove the base board moulding without breaking it and even if you succeed the trim will be filled with unusable nail holes and it could easily damage your walls.
![How To Install Carpet Under Baseboard Heater How To Install Carpet Under Baseboard Heater](/uploads/1/2/3/7/123755622/709734390.jpg)
Luckily you don’t have to remove the base board when removing the carpet. Carpet is installed underneath the baseboard. The space between the tack strip, the wall, and the bottom of the trim is called the gully and it is where the edge of the carpet is tucked into after it is stretched and cut. I would remove the carpet and then paint the trim. If you have more questions let us know. Take some pictures of the remodel so we can see the progress. Hey there Willis!
Welcome to the community:) Good to hear that you're ready to tackle the job, but the tools may vary a bit depending on what type of bamboo you opt to use. At The Home Depot, we sell it in all 3 varieties of Hardwood: Solid, Click, or Floating. Do you know which one you're looking to put down? Regardless of the install type, you'll want to definitely make sure that you pick up at least 10% extra of the material itself, so that way you will have enough for waste, and enable you to 'piece' the boxes. For a glue-down installation, you'll want to get a tub of Urethane-based glue, much like this: It will clearly be labeled for use with Bamboo floors, so make sure that you get the right kind. If you are using a product that you perhaps bought elsewhere, double check with the manufacturer on what type of adhesive to use, as variance may void your warranty.
If you are nailing, you will want to make sure that you either own or rent a flooring nailer and purchase the appropriate sized nails. It honestly varies with the thickness of your bamboo, so if you are shopping with us than be sure to let an associate know what size hardwood you're dealing with, and they can get you the appropriate nail size and spacer if needed. You will also want a tongue & groove adhesive to use, remarkably, on the tongue and grooves. This is usually a PVA type glue, and can be found right next to the urethane floor adhesives at your local store. Also make sure that you have the appropriate cutting tools such as a table or circular saw, preferably with a good amount of teeth to it for the cuts that you will need to make.
Also any type of trim or reducer strips that you will be using. And also depending on the type of installation that you are doing, you will need a type of underlayment for underneath the floor. For a solid-type floor, typically Red Rosin or KRAFT paper is used as a vapor barrier, depends on who you speak with. If you are opting for the floating style, we carry two levels of padding that you can chose from depending on how much sound detonation you need from the floor. Hopefully that at least gives you a start on it, and get's your brain going in the right direction. Please let us know about any specifics for the floor, like what type exactly you're looking.
We'll get you on the right track:). Hey there Willis! Welcome to the community:) Good to hear that you're ready to tackle the job, but the tools may vary a bit depending on what type of bamboo you opt to use.
At The Home Depot, we sell it in all 3 varieties of Hardwood: Solid, Click, or Floating. Do you know which one you're looking to put down? Regardless of the install type, you'll want to definitely make sure that you pick up at least 10% extra of the material itself, so that way you will have enough for waste, and enable you to 'piece' the boxes. For a glue-down installation, you'll want to get a tub of Urethane-based glue, much like this: It will clearly be labeled for use with Bamboo floors, so make sure that you get the right kind.
If you are using a product that you perhaps bought elsewhere, double check with the manufacturer on what type of adhesive to use, as variance may void your warranty. If you are nailing, you will want to make sure that you either own or rent a flooring nailer and purchase the appropriate sized nails. It honestly varies with the thickness of your bamboo, so if you are shopping with us than be sure to let an associate know what size hardwood you're dealing with, and they can get you the appropriate nail size and spacer if needed. You will also want a tongue & groove adhesive to use, remarkably, on the tongue and grooves. This is usually a PVA type glue, and can be found right next to the urethane floor adhesives at your local store.
Also make sure that you have the appropriate cutting tools such as a table or circular saw, preferably with a good amount of teeth to it for the cuts that you will need to make. Also any type of trim or reducer strips that you will be using. And also depending on the type of installation that you are doing, you will need a type of underlayment for underneath the floor. For a solid-type floor, typically Red Rosin or KRAFT paper is used as a vapor barrier, depends on who you speak with. If you are opting for the floating style, we carry two levels of padding that you can chose from depending on how much sound detonation you need from the floor. Hopefully that at least gives you a start on it, and get's your brain going in the right direction. Please let us know about any specifics for the floor, like what type exactly you're looking.
We'll get you on the right track:).
These units are inexpensive and are a heat source that runs entirely on electricity. They work on 120 to 240 volts. They are inexpensive to purchase but the total value depends on electricity costs in your area. They are often used in a small home or in an addition. They install right against the wall on the floor and can be installed on carpets. On the back of unit, there are knockouts to easily screw it to the wall. The electricity can hook up on either end, you will just have to wire it for power.
They also come in a number of capacities. The longer the unit the greater the capacity.
Just find out the amount of BTU's you need to heat each room and then purchase the appropriate length heater. Temperature is regulated by a thermostat on either end. Some can be wired and installed on wall using a line voltage thermostat. The power can be connected on either end with existing wiring.
Some units can also be as simple as a plug into the wall. The unit operates by convection, which means the stainless steal fins on the inside will heat up and the warm air will gently and comfortably circulate through the room. There is a safety element that runs in the front of the unit and there is also a feature that will also shut it off if the element becomes too hot.
Hello, My husband and I recently installed a boiler and radiant bb heating in our home and LOVE it. We are finishing our basement and we ran into a problem I'm hoping someone on this board can help us sort out. Our bb installation was the first for our plumber so some bbs were installed directly on the concrete floor.
We're getting ready to order carpet and are concerned about the carpet placement and air flow. The bb are slant flin. What are our options for carpet in these rooms?
Should we have our plumber raise the bb? Install the carpet up to the bb but not under?
Do we need a minimum amount of clearance? Thanks for your help! Under Baseboards: It must be raised a minimum of 3/4'.
Have a pine strip made that 5' longer than the given length of the baseboard. If it is a 8' (96') baseboard, add 5' to the strip, now 105'. That's 2.75' each for the end caps. Set the back panel in the strip. The end caps will fit to the end of the strip. Cut the baseboards back carefully and when done, you will have a neat fit. The carpet installer will run the carpet up to the front of the baseboard against the strip.
How To Baseboard Heaters Work
It will be a very neat and professional looking installation. That's how I do it. I never just set 3/4' blocks to set the height of the baseboard heaters. Like ME said, stand back and you will see under the heater. It looks SO unprofessional.
Baseboard Heater Safety are a quiet and inexpensive way to heat your home. They operate at a low profile at the base of a wall and heat a room by circulating the air through convection to provide heat. Since there is no fan, this type of heater works silently, forcing cold air to the bottom of the room while maintaining warmth in the air that rises from the baseboard heater. An electric baseboard heater system does often require wiring, but they are relatively simple to install and require minimal maintenance. They're perfect for room additions and areas that are more frequently used so you don't have to waste energy trying to heat an entire house. Are Baseboard Heaters Dangerous? Are generally considered safe, and the fire danger is fairly low.
Since an electric baseboard heater uses a convection process to heat, the heater does get hot. Baseboard heater covers keep children and pets away from the hottest tubes in the heater, and many baseboard heaters come standard with a cover. However, the unit will still be warm to the touch. No flame or carbon monoxide is generated, and convection heating should give you the cleanest warmth possible (versus a fan-forced heater which could blow around dust and particles). Electric baseboard heaters usually mount to the wall, but there are some freestanding models available. The freestanding models have integrated safety features, such as automatically turning off if they accidentally tip over. These units plug into any standard household outlet and don't require hard wiring like a traditional baseboard heater would.
Baseboard heaters are super efficient and convert 100% of the energy they use to produce heat. However, if a baseboard heater is used improperly there is a risk of fire, so keep these safety tips in mind when you're using your unit. Five Baseboard Heater Safety Tips 1.
Install your baseboard heater well. Ensure your electric unit is installed correctly by reading the user's manual. Department of Energy recommends that baseboards sit at least 3/4 inches above the floor or carpet so air convection can move properly through the unit. Some cities regulate the installation and use of these heaters, so check with your local codes department before installing or extending your heating system. If any problems arise, it is best to hire an experienced professional electrician to repair your baseboard heater.
Faulty wiring or a damaged internal component can cause a to overheat, which could lead to a fire. Some electric models come with an internal sensor that automatically shuts off the heater if it starts to get to hot. Call a technician if your heater smokes, makes a strange sound or emits a burning odor. Location, location, location.
Don't install your baseboard heater below electrical outlets because the rising heat could cause any hanging electric cords to heat up and spark, potentially causing a fire. And again, you don't want your unit to be touching the floor.
In general, maintain at least a foot of clearance from the top and front of the baseboard heater. Don't allow drapes or window blind cords to rest on the unit. Especially avoid placing flammable objects nearby.
Practice safe thermostat control. If you have more than one baseboard heater in the same room, it's best to use only one thermostat to control all the units. Be patient when trying to heat a room with a baseboard heater. It may be tempting to set the thermostat to a higher setting, but that will not actually heat the room more quickly. Set your thermostat to your desired room temperature, and wait for the room to warm gradually. Routine cleaning is necessary.
While dust and lint aren't a huge safety problem, they will act as tinder in the case of a fire, and blocked vents could cause a unit to overheat. Be sure to vacuum around your baseboard heater occasionally, using a narrow nosed vacuum hose attachment to help you pick up the fine particles of debris. Cleaning your electric baseboard heater also prevents that 'burned dust' odor that occurs when you first turn on your unit after infrequent use. Remember, the cleaner your equipment is, the more efficient it will be. Simple maintenance will help keep your energy bills low.
Child and pet proof using baseboard heater covers. Baseboard heater covers keep tiny fingers and curious pets away from the hottest part of the unit. Children and pets still need to be kept away, however, since the heater radiates heat. Also make sure children to do not leave their toys or other objects near or inside the heater. Baseboard heater covers can also update the look of your unit.
Most units come with a cover, however you can also buy baseboard heater covers separately. They don't block airflow as they visually hide and protect the heating elements inside. Advantages of Baseboard Heater Ownership For many, the advantages of a baseboard heater outweigh any dangers, especially considering how easy it is to avoid any accidents or fires. These few 'pros' may just convince you that a baseboard heater unit is for you. Easy Maintenance Maintaining your baseboard heater is super easy, and one really just requires regular vacuuming to prevent dust build up.
For any repairs you may have, hiring a professional electrician may be the safest option. Overall baseboard heaters are sturdy little units that shouldn't break down often and won't cost you much money upfront or in the long run.
Zone Heating A baseboard heater uses no more than 1,500 watts and can cover areas up to 150 square feet. By only heating up one room, you can save a ton of energy and keep you electricity bill low. For larger areas it's easy to install multiple units around the room.
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Baseboard heating gives your room a gentle, even warmth. Low-Profile Another advantage of a is how little room it takes up. The long, slim design is barely noticeable in any room. By using convection heating instead of a fan, a baseboard heater remains unobtrusive and silent. Hassle-free, energy efficient and unobtrusive electric baseboard heaters are a great heating choice as long as you remember to follow a few safety precautions! Featured Products.